Wood turning and Scrollsawing.

Tim Clark

22 Posts
Tue, 10th May 2011, 10:59am

Hey, Gunado,

Have you seen my post on Scrollsaws & Intarsia.

There is heap of ideas out there for the scrollsaw. Compound cutting is quick & easy to start with or to turn out results at a show (for money).

Lets hear from you.   Tim Clark

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leslie williamson

95 Posts
Thu, 12th May 2011, 9:18am

Hello Gunado, I am gunado lots of thing too. As a matter of fact I have a whole shed full of them. I get into scroll saw work,turning, routa lathe work , and anything else that makes a lot of projects. I am always interested in what other men build or creat, have a good one Les.

I like to build small replicas of things as I don't have a big enough shed

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Shep

5 Posts
Sat, 21st May 2011, 10:25am

Hi Tim

      I am a frst time user and I also am in to scrolwork I have done scrollart some compound,segmentation and Iam starting intarsia.

                                                                          I hope to hear from you

                                                                                            Shep

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Tim Clark

22 Posts
Mon, 23rd May 2011, 2:31pm

Hi Shep,

Good to hear that someone out there is into Scrollsawing.

Compound sawing is great to get people started on as sometimes they think it is very complicated.

The only trap I find is if you dont start with square sides on your block. (badly cut stock).

Easy to make candle holders that look terrific are a good starting point..

I have found that books by Diana Thompson provide a lot of good patterns. In fact I usually start off "neweys" in our retirement village with her patterns and they get a sence of achievement in getting something done quickly.

There are some good American magazines that also provide patterns. Although not all newsagents stock them. You have to do a bit of hunting about to locate one that will stock them or take your order to get them for you.

Good to talk with you & "Keep making sawdust"

Regards Tim......

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Shep

5 Posts
Mon, 23rd May 2011, 5:00pm

Hi Tim.

   Good to hear from you,I agree with unsquare stock It gave me quite a problem until I woke up to it. I subscribe to creative woodworks &crafts It is costly but I belive it to be good value.

I am working with popular at present Have you ever tried it.

                                                                                                              Regards

                                                                                                                                Shep.

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Tim Clark

22 Posts
Wed, 25th May 2011, 12:21pm

Hi Shep,

I haven't tried Poplar, but I find Jacaranda or N.Z. Kauri very rewarding to work with.

With Intarsia you need to build up a huge supply of "offcuts" as a souce of colours.

Being called for lunch.

Get back to you another time

Regards Tim.....

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Shep

5 Posts
Fri, 3rd June 2011, 1:01pm

Hi Tim

   Good to hear fom you .I have found popular soft and conaistant to cut unlike some pines and origan where tht grain is harder whitch makes it dificult to sand . I have a Hegna and a W.M.S. saw What do you have?

                      Regards Shep.

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leslie williamson

95 Posts
Fri, 3rd June 2011, 3:17pm

Hi Tim I am glad that I arn't the only one who gathers all the offcuts. I get all the very small different bit and slice them all to about 3 mil and drill a hole through the middle of them,  then thread them on a long thin bolt and clamp them like a shishcabob then with the  saw or sander I make it into a long square of different colours. Remove the bolt and lay them out and glue them  like a jigsaw puzzle on a piece of ply then grout all the holes with sawdust and glue, then cut out your pattern, try it Les 

I like to build small replicas of things as I don't have a big enough shed

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Doug Cooper

2 Posts
Fri, 10th June 2011, 5:18pm

Hi All, I  have wood lathe for making my BLACKFISH floats .{ out of cedar & pine}. My questions are 1 why is it that no matter how much i turn down & sand a float i can still feel a ridge or even 2 ridges on the float stem, Q2 what make the timber start viberating when i put the turning tool to it.

Thank you all for your help

                                            longdoug

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Zeitgeist

12 Posts
Thu, 16th June 2011, 6:25pm

Quote from Tim Clark’s comment on Tue, 10th May 2011, 10:59am:

Hey, Gunado,

Have you seen my post on Scrollsaws & Intarsia.

There is heap of ideas out there for the scrollsaw. Compound cutting is quick & easy to start with or to turn out results at a show (for money).

Lets hear from you.   Tim Clark

 

Hi Leslie,

 

I take from your comments that you have quite some experience with timber. May I ask you a question about how to best overcome non-availability of timber sizes ?

 

I want to generate a sculpture similar to the attached picture. Unfortunately I cannot get the size of timber I need. Now, would there be adequate strength if I glued three pieces of hardwood together and start sculpturing, using saw, chisel, file etc – or would the joint fail ?

 

I could precisely flatten the areas being glued together to prevent any voids in the joint and roughen up the timber before gluing them together.

 

The timber is spotted red gum. The surfaces to join are 140x210 mm, the material is 35mm thick

 

Would you have other recommendations?

 

 

Leslie, thanks in advance / Reinhard 

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leslie williamson

95 Posts
Fri, 17th June 2011, 11:01am

Quote from Zeitgeist’s comment on Thu, 16th June 2011, 6:25pm:

Quote from Tim Clark’s comment on Tue, 10th May 2011, 10:59am:

Hey, Gunado,

Have you seen my post on Scrollsaws & Intarsia.

There is heap of ideas out there for the scrollsaw. Compound cutting is quick & easy to start with or to turn out results at a show (for money).

Lets hear from you.   Tim Clark

 

Hi Leslie,

 

I take from your comments that you have quite some experience with timber. May I ask you a question about how to best overcome non-availability of timber sizes ?

 

I want to generate a sculpture similar to the attached picture. Unfortunately I cannot get the size of timber I need. Now, would there be adequate strength if I glued three pieces of hardwood together and start sculpturing, using saw, chisel, file etc – or would the joint fail ?

 

I could precisely flatten the areas being glued together to prevent any voids in the joint and roughen up the timber before gluing them together.

 

The timber is spotted red gum. The surfaces to join are 140x210 mm, the material is 35mm thick

 

Would you have other recommendations?

 

 

Leslie, thanks in advance / Reinhard 

Hi Reinhard I hope I have this note in the right place where you can find it.  When prepairing wood for a sculpture build it up from as thinner pieces of wood as possible and have the joins in all different places. you only need the best wood for the final couple of layers so the final texture will look good. Try it on some scraps and you will see how strong it becomes.  Danger, make sure your shirt doesn't get sandwiched between the layers or you will end up wearing it . Have fun Les.  

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Tim Clark

22 Posts
Fri, 17th June 2011, 11:03am

Hi Zeitgeist,

There is no reason to not laminate several pieces of wood together.

It can give a bit of character to your project, but be sure that the laminations do not clash grain- feature wise.

Should look good.

I have had excellent results in gluing using Weldbond glue (it comes from Canada) not all hardware stores stock it.

It has good "grab" & sets very firmly, better than some of the local glues.

To avoid "furry" end grains spoiling your project use Feast Watson's Sanding Sealer after your final sanding. This will avoid the exposed end- grain appearing darker than the other sections.

Then a light sand to smooth off, and follow with your preferred finish. This will give a good overall appearance.

Regards Tim Clark..... 

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leslie williamson

95 Posts
Fri, 17th June 2011, 11:11am

Hi Reinhard I'm back again as I couldn't get 2 pictures on the same page. This is the same little white horse as in the last picture but it is in the laminating stage Les

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Zeitgeist

12 Posts
Fri, 17th June 2011, 8:29pm

Hi Leslie,

Thanks for your message.

With 35 mm, the hardwood pieces are just too thick and do not really compare with the technique you used for the rocking horse. But thanks for the tip - I may use it another time.

Have a nice weekend / Reinhard

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Zeitgeist

12 Posts
Fri, 17th June 2011, 8:34pm

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get the "weldbond" glue. It sounds very promising.

There are no problems with furry end grains with the spotted redgum timber - I used it before. It could be a great help though for other stringy type timber. Thanks again

Reinhard

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SteveinPakenham

31 Posts
Sun, 19th June 2011, 9:07pm

Hi all, Ive just recently bought a scrollsaw and well im hooked already lol. Unfortunately im on a disability pension so money is tight...anyway enough of the poor me's :). I have a GMC one which I know isnt close to mid market but it was affordable and a good start. What are some good brands that arent going to send me bankrupt when i can afford it. I would love some tips on that. Im gonna ask around at the shed on my next visit but would love more opinions. anyways thanks all :)

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Tim Clark

22 Posts
Tue, 21st June 2011, 9:23am

Hi Steve,

A GMC is a good place to start with scrollsawing, but I think from memory you are limited to using pinned blades. If this is so, see if you can track down a generic conversion for Pinless blades as this will open up a whole new world of projects that are "cutable". You are currently limited with pinned blades to only outside cuts or those that you can put the blade (& pins) through. About 3/16" I think. A bit limiting for some projects.

Pinless blades offer hundreds of combinations which makes work a lot easier. You can get blades for thin work or even to cut thin light gauge metals. The list is endless.

I started with a single speed Ryobi with pinned blades. Then I got onto a conversion to pinless blades. The single speed I found a bit limiting. So I sold my lathe to finance a Delta (which no longer is available in Australia).  I have probably about 50 different blades. Some I use very rarely, others I favour for lots of different work (universal ,perhaps).

Good Luck with the scrollsawing.

"Keep making sawdust"

Regards,, Tim Clark.... 

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leslie williamson

95 Posts
Tue, 21st June 2011, 11:19am

Hi Stevein,  the advice that Tim has given is prety much on the mark. As you get into more finer work you will need the finer blades. All GMC machinery is well worth the money when you are starting out, and the 2 year garantee comes in handy if you get a faulty one.  I repair a lot of GMC machines that are well out of their 2 years and have done a lot of work. 15 years is the oldest one  have and it is still going. Mostly it is the switch that goes on them. in this case get an electrician to fit just a household switch as it is much cheeper. I have made my own conversion to take the finer blades. Am I right in assuming that you come from pakenham? if so go along to one of the local woodworking groups. Berwick is a very good one and even as a visitor you will learn so much. Enjoy the finer things in life that can be done on a scroll saw, and remember, its not the cost of the machine that makes a good job, it is the operator. Les. 

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Tim Clark

22 Posts
Wed, 22nd June 2011, 9:32am

Hi Steve,

Have found some information that may help you with a conversion to pinless blaeds on your GMC scrollsaw. There is an Olsen Kit available from the USA which should do the job. It is Olsen scroll saw Blade Conversion Kit Part No:- AC49610 ,price US$29-99. get on the interenet to Olsen USA.

Hope this is of help to you.

Regards Tim.....

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Shep

5 Posts
Thu, 23rd June 2011, 5:05pm

HI Steve

     Good on you for having a go, I belive the best saw for anybody is the one you aford and enjoy.

I started off with a W.M.S. and it used pinned blades and I first solved the problem by using blade blocks from a hegna saw but a real pain in the but when the blade breaks. Later on I obiained a conversion kit from Harris Traders. This kit is a permenet fixture and works very wel.I do almost all of dealing by mail and I am very satified .Helen can be reached by email.  ochjh@netconnect.com.au

     I hope I have been of some help.

                                                                        Happy sawing

                                                                                            Regards  Shep

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